Raymarine st1000

[pdandy]

No, it just goes to the end of the piston arm in either direction and then beeps in overload. Which bit do I need to shorten ? Thought about moving it all closer to the gudgeons but that would also reduce the leverage and increase the load. I have been doing it the old way for over 70 years, but having paid the money in my dotage it would be nice if I got the whole package.


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Yes, move it closer to the pivot. As a gross rule of thumb, you need the st attached where the tiller goes as far across as YOU would move it, yet the forces need to be clise to what you could achieve at that point.

My NX is set up " too close" to the stern, but the rudder is so well balanced the forces are minimal so the ST doesn't have an issue. It'd be a different story with a heavy tiller

[Peridot]

Sorry to hijack the thread, but it is a worthwhile feature if it works, and anyone thinking of getting an ST 1000 needs to be aware of the problem.


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[Barefoot Days]

Castle 610 - did you shorten the pivot point length to be behind the seat locker? do you have a pic of your installation on the 650?

[Castle 610]

Excuse my dirty boat. Here it is.


And normally the cord gets routed better than this.

The tiller looks hard over..the pilot isn't powered up so fully retracted.

[bachus]

My pin is located behind the stbd locker as follows:



The advantage of this location.
1. The locker can be opened when the ST2000 is fitted
2. The locker moulding overlaps the deck moulding at this location. The thickness there is enough to not require reinforcement



But you will need a 50mm extension to the arm to get equal throw. This following photo shows the ST2000 ram at midpoint and the tiller in dead ahead position . . . 50mm offset required.

[Castle 610]

Jim do you actually have the extension..or like me just live with it as is?

[bachus]

Jim do you actually have the extension..or like me just live with it as is?

I have the extension. For what it is - sheesh - $35 delivered.

[bachus]

I think moving the mounting point 50mm closer to the tiller is warranted. But the hatch opening / closing would need to be checked as would the level of thickness of the deck where the pin mounts. I put an inspection hatch in the locker to allow access to add reinforcing - in the end did not need any reinforcing where I put the mounting pin.

[Castle 610]

Looking at the pics l think my pin is closer to the centreline. Works like a charm.

As l said 28 autotacks later who's counting?

[bachus]

Looking at the pics l think my pin is closer to the centreline. Works like a charm.

As l said 28 autotacks layer who's counting?

Yeh I think I got the measurement wrong on the initial install. Probably cheaper to get a new socket and fit it than the extension but what is done is done.

[pdandy]

Looking at the pics l think my pin is closer to the centreline. Works like a charm.

As l said 28 autotacks layer who's counting?

Yeh I think I got the measurement wrong on the initial install. Probably cheaper to get a new socket and fit it than the extension but what is done is done.

Look on the bright side - at least you can still open the locker I'm a couple of mm too far forward so have to turn off / move mr ray to open my locker.

[bachus]

Looking at the pics l think my pin is closer to the centreline. Works like a charm.

As l said 28 autotacks layer who's counting?

Yeh I think I got the measurement wrong on the initial install. Probably cheaper to get a new socket and fit it than the extension but what is done is done.

Look on the bright side - at least you can still open the locker I'm a couple of mm too far forward so have to turn off / move mr ray to open my locker.

Yes i DID get that measurement correct

[Peridot]

On board today so took 2 photos. No way is the amount of travel available enough to tack my boat. It is also too slow to move. It would need to be half the distance stated in the installation instructions to get enough travel, and then it would be overloaded when sailing. If I try to tack as it is, it goes to it's limit then starts ticking in overload.

My conclusion is, if you buy an ST 1000, don't expect it to tack without modifications. I find that disappointing. Steers well, doesn't tack.

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[mat stirling]

I've got a lightly used ST1000 I need to sell.
Was used on a Castle 650 over a few seasons in the Whitsundays. Never missed a beat.

Mat

[stevenSunbird]

Hi,
please PM me with details, price, location etc.

[Moz3]

If you haven't bought yet, I would go with the ST2000.
I paid the bit extra because the shaft apparently works at twice the speed, which I figured would be handy in a following sea.
I'm happy with mine, but it barely keeps up if the boat's yawing downwind a bit ... it's hard to imagine one working half the speed keeping up with corrections

[Moz3]

re my previous comment, that might not be such an issue with the Sunbird.
With that long stub keel it probably tracks better downwind than my Sonata 26

[mat stirling]

Hi,
please PM me with details, price, location etc.

Steven.

My email is Viv.mat@bigpond.com.
Send me an email and i'll respond.

I dont recall having any problems tacking my ST1000 on the Castle.

I did a lot of cruising mods on my boat. The addition of the tiller pilot was probably the best one.

You can't really expect a tiller pilot to do the job in a following sea. Reaching and particularly to windward I found it to work well.