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PostPosted: Apr 9th, '12, 18:49 
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Tymadman wrote:


There's nothing at all biblical about me! A church schooling thoroughly cured me of religion.

I'm experimenting with a new graphic for the sides of the boat (and the front of the high roof camper on the ute).

Does anyone know anything about adhesive signwriting?

I've drawn up what I want in autocad (vector based) and can produce a raster file (pixels .gif, .bmp, etc) at a suitable resolution, composed of solid red, yellow, blue and black on a white background, which you can see to the left at very low resolution.

Do they do something like this by cutting out the separate components from different colours on a single backing sheet to align them, or do they print the whole lot onto a single sheet of vinyl?

(Better make this a new thread - done!)

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PostPosted: Apr 9th, '12, 21:05 
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zebedee wrote:
Tymadman wrote:


There's nothing at all biblical about me! A church schooling thoroughly cured me of religion.

I'm experimenting with a new graphic for the sides of the boat (and the front of the high roof camper on the ute).

Does anyone know anything about adhesive signwriting?

I've drawn up what I want in autocad (vector based) and can produce a raster file (pixels .gif, .bmp, etc) at a suitable resolution, composed of solid red, yellow, blue and black on a white background, which you can see to the left at very low resolution.

Do they do something like this by cutting out the separate components from different colours on a single backing sheet to align them, or do they print the whole lot onto a single sheet of vinyl?

(Better make this a new thread - done!)


Layering vinyl is pretty common. In fact this is the way it used to be done. These days, anything more than a couple of layers its normally printed.

The way I do it (layering vinyl) is to add 3 registration marks (are diamond shape) to the image. When applying, You line up the registration marks as you apply each layer.

The image on your avatar would probably be printed though, less time consuming.

Printers can work with most file types that can be opened by Coral Draw or Adobe Illustrator, so best if you save files as .cdr or.ai


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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 00:47 
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I don't have Corel Draw or Adobe Illustrator, but I have the outline of the image (in fact the entire construction) in AutoCad, from which I can generate other formats.

Presumably anything that is pixel based and has diagonal lines needs to be pretty high resolution to avoid staircasing. I'll go and do some learning about .cdr and .ai files and see what I can come up with.

I've had printed stickers on the current boat (small government printed safety stuff which faded or rubbed off within a couple of years), as well as seeing the results at Holden of the Marketing people bypassing Engineering (and durability testing) and getting their own warranty stickers printed up cheap back in the early 1990s, VN/VP/VR/VS. The joke around Engineering was that the stickers faded before the warranty period ended. As a result, I'd be more comfortable with layering from solid colour layers, but if you reckon they print them successfully nowdays, then I guess that works for me.

Graham

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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 00:57 
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OK, I now understand that Corel Draw and Adobe Illustrator are both vector graphic programs and can both import .dxf which I can produce from AutoCad.

To a man with a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
To a man with a nail, everything looks like a hammer.

AutoCad might not be the usual hammer for this sort of work, but I already had it and knew my way around in it when I set out to produce the image...

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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 07:13 
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The inks they use these days a fairly reliable. Whilst the typical solution would be a solvent ink, or a uv cured ink, i am pretty sure there is now water based inks that are suitable for long term outdoor use. Best to talk to your local signwriters to see what they reccomend.

BTW. The best vinyl you can get is rated for about 10 years of outdoor use. Modern inks will outlast the substrate.


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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 12:43 
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Stick with a DXF file, any signwriter should be able to use it.

My background is more screen printing and vinyl, mostly used for safety vest wording and similar. The vinyl lasts very well if you get a decent brand, vinyl is one of those things you generally get what you pay for.

Personally I'd get it printed in one piece, final look will be better and easier to apply without getting bubbles or wrinkles!

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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 17:06 
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Zeb,
The stickers for "Moody Blue" were done by a sticker guy at Laverton Market.

Just needed to tell them the height of the lettering and the colours I wanted

They threw it up on their PC screen for final approval.

Went for a walk around the market for 1/2 an hour.

Cost $50 per side.

When applying, use a detergent spray to enable bubble removal and slipping the sticker around a little.

DO NOT try to apply the sticker dry or you WILL get bubbles and probably creases.

Cheers


Jeff

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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 20:11 
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Of course if it is actually sign vinyl then don't use detergent! They are self adhesive

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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 22:00 
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My experience of large self adhesive vinyl signs is taxi door signs about 25 years ago, but they were definitely self adhesive, and we definitely used soapy water to allow them to slide into the correct place and squeegy the bubbles, etc, out from beneath them.

It sounds very counter intuitive when you first hear it, but it definitely allows them to be moved around and flattened out and they definitely stick down properly soon afterwards.

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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 22:01 
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Cookie,
The detergent dries and allows the sticker to self adhere.

With out it a curved hull is way too difficult to garantee no bubbles.

Our lettering is 300 mm high by about 1.5 metres long.
Jeff


Attachments:
Moody Blue 8 small.JPG
Moody Blue 8 small.JPG [ 56.51 KiB | Viewed 2578 times ]

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PostPosted: Apr 10th, '12, 22:54 
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A friend of mine used to do stickers and pinstripes etc., for a living and he always says to wet the area before putting self adhesive vinyl on. As previously stated it means that you can move it around a bit and gets the bubbles out easier.

Coops.

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