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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '16, 12:42 
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Advice please,

I brought a Tohatsu 6 brand new 3-4 years ago and have had nothing but problems with it, has anyone else experienced similar issues?

Hard to start, will not idle, once it is warmed up stops when put into forward gear.

I have returned it to the dealership and they have serviced it again and again. Works well for 2-3 hours maximum and starts playing up again, hard to start, will not re-start, not idling consistently, when put into gear stops.
The only real problem that has been found was small pieces of hose inside the carburettor, which was reported on other models as a manufacturing fault.
New fuel is used every time, always flushed with fresh water. This is a new motor that has not had a lot of use, the mechanic said it could possibly be from not enough use.
I do agreed it does not get used enough, probably every 3 months it gets in the water for different periods, but it should still go.

Advice on my lemon as we have broken down and been towed to many times.


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '16, 14:37 
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Dick wrote:
Hard to start, will not idle, once it is warmed up stops when put into forward gear.

This sounds like carby issues, specifically a partially/fully blocked idle jet. With a motor this small the jets are tiny, so they really don't tolerate dirty fuel.

Dick wrote:
I have returned it to the dealership and they have serviced it again and again. Works well for 2-3 hours maximum and starts playing up again, hard to start, will not re-start, not idling consistently, when put into gear stops.
The only real problem that has been found was small pieces of hose inside the carburettor, which was reported on other models as a manufacturing fault.

That supports the blocked jets idea...

Dick wrote:
New fuel is used every time, always flushed with fresh water. This is a new motor that has not had a lot of use, the mechanic said it could possibly be from not enough use.
I do agreed it does not get used enough, probably every 3 months it gets in the water for different periods, but it should still go.

Advice on my lemon as we have broken down and been towed to many times.

I trust its the cooling system thats being flushed with fresh water! 8-)

I had similar problems for a while with a Honda BF5. I have a filter in the fuel line and I regularly drain the carby via the drain tap, NOT by running it dry. The idea is to give anything that does get as far as the carby bowl as much chance as possible of leaving without ending up going through a jet.

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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '16, 15:53 
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not idling consistently, when put into gear stops.

I agree with (the knowledgeable) Zeb on carby / fuel as the likely candidate for poor starting.
After all there is only spark and fuel as issues at that stage.
A fuel filter would be my first fix.

But that raises the question of why the "qualified" service mechanic didn't twig to that


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '16, 18:51 
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Where to start, it definitely sounds like fuel and carby issues.

As mentioned earlier, an inline filter on the hose near the engine would be good insurance.

You are in NSW with ethanol unleaded, the ethanol could be a problem

Many modern outboards have very lean fuel mixtures at idle which will mean idle is easily upset by any small issues. My guess is the mechanic might be adjusting the idle mixture without getting the engine to its proper temperature or speed.

Get a tachometer on the engine so you can check the engine idle speed. This is for 2 strokes and will read at half the speed.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Waterproof-T ... 1118367744

edit and this for 4 strokes

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engine-Digit ... 1137183748

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PostPosted: Jan 12th, '16, 00:08 
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I'd forgotten about ethanol in petrol in NSW. Modern fuel hoses and carbie plastics *ought* to withstand the stuff, but it is well worth avoiding. In NSW you may be forced to buy high octane unleaded to avoid it. My advice from a chemist friend at Caltex many years ago was that the high octane fuels he was testing at the time "go off" even faster than ordinary unleaded.

When I drain my carbie, I give the prime bulb on the fuel hose a few squeezes to wash a bit more petrol through; the objective isn't to get the petrol out of the carbie, it's to make sure that any particulate in there gets washed out without ending up in a jet - since without draining, everything eventually goes through the jets.

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PostPosted: Jan 12th, '16, 18:12 
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I forgot to consider that you might have a 25 inch leg.

Some extra long shaft outboards can have the idle exhaust submerged which could be too submerged and increase back pressure which would effect idle.

Check the depth of water over the leg.

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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '16, 18:45 
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Mine is a short shaft but it is probably similar. I have had it for over ten years and have had one or two bouts of trouble. They are simple machines!
Make sure all jets are clear. The main jet, the idle jet and the diffuser tube. The diffuser tube pokes into the carby throat. Push it down and tap to get it out.
I use a steel 'hair' out of a wire brush to clear the jets. The idle or slow speed jet must be set properly. Start with 3.5 turns from fully in.
Check the float moves freely and when horizontal blocks fuel entry to the fuel chamber.
Most important, change the plug. Even if it looks OK. They don't cost much ($5) and can make a huge difference.

Personally I think the "stale fuel" problem is over-emphasised. As is the Ethanol. These motors are very basic.



For this message the author Gil Webster has received thanks: zebedee (Jan 14th, '16, 23:32)
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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '18, 19:55 
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I have a 3 month old Tohatsu 6 long shaft sail pro 4 stroke so its 3 month service is due.
Its a simple matter of changing the gear oil, the engine oil and engine filter.

However the warranty book clearly states that the 3 yr warranty will only apply if the "goods" have been maintained only by a Tohatsu dealer.

I spoke to the dealer who i bought from (Mainstream Marine, Horizon Shores) who said that the work could be done by the owner as long as "evidence" is kept that the work was done. By that i assume he means receipts.

Has anyone else received that advice, and done the servicing themselves?
Better still, has anyone then gone on to make a claim against Tohatsu?

Cheers

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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '18, 01:01 
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I believe that this issue has been thrashed out with cars (any dealer service managers here?); that as long as your car is serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's published schedule by a suitably qualified workshop, your warranty must be supported.

It's difficult to see how the same would not apply to something as simple as an outboard motor, but unless the owner's manual details how to perform service work (implying it can be satisfactorily performed by the owner), you might fall foul of not being personally qualified to do the work to the required standard.

Remember, this isn't saying that you can't do the work right, but that without a qualification, you can't assure someone else that the work has been done correctly.

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For this message the author zebedee has received thanks: bunyip (Feb 28th, '18, 07:51)
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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '18, 11:43 
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I think for cars it has to be a qualified mechanic...which makes sense

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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '18, 11:58 
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Just checked with Mainstream, and despite what the secretary was insisting, the dealer himself told me that as long as it's a qualified outboard mechanic (i.e. not done by oneself) and they use genuine parts and give receipts, it should be fine.

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PostPosted: Apr 22nd, '18, 17:18 
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I think we need a Ralph Nader for the customers of the outboard motor industry. I have had my outboard since new 10 years ago. Always have done my own servicing and will continue to do so until it cannot work any more.

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PostPosted: Apr 26th, '18, 11:53 
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I’m very new to outboards and would be interested if Dick found the fault.
Dick does not mention if it revs ok in neutral or if the prop. is spinning relative to revving in neutral.
When engaging gear there must be some kind of clutch or electronic switch that momentarily disengages shaft right? If so could this be an issue.

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PostPosted: Apr 26th, '18, 13:19 
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Tezza wrote:
When engaging gear there must be some kind of clutch or electronic switch that momentarily disengages shaft right? If so could this be an issue.


Nope; you're thinking like a car gearbox with a seperate clutch and synchromesh gear selection. Outboards and most small marine gearboxes use dog clutches which can engage despite a speed difference across the clutch because the propeller is able to spin freely, unlike the drive wheels of a stationary car.
This is why it is important not to be tentative when engaging gear in a boat.

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