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PostPosted: Jun 15th, '17, 11:59 
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Hi, I am about to build a new rear lightboard for my NIS23 trailer, the old one was the full trailer width of just over 7 feet. And it stuck out each side of the narrow stern by a few feet. It seems dangerous and clunky.

I was hoping I could get away with making the new one the same width as the transom (about 4 feet or so) if this is legal. The trailer does have amber lights at the widest point on the mudguards. To mark the width.

The longer lightboard seems to me to be a hazard sticking out way wider than my overhanging stern when swinging, and it is a nuisance to stow and secure. Image

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PostPosted: Jun 15th, '17, 18:10 
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The lights are supposed to be within 400mm of the maximum trailer width on each side.

For example, if your trailer is 2450mm wide, each pair of lights on the light board needs to be no less than 1650mm apart. Obviously if you've got rectangular lamp assemblies, the inboard light in each lamp, typically the tail/brake light, is closest to the matching light on the far side and is the limiting light, whereas if you mount the lamp assemblies vertically, you can make your light board a whisker shorter.

Image

Then there are all the issues around whether the boat is part of the trailer (it isn't unless it is bolted down), and thus whether a light board attached to what is the load, not the trailer, even remotely meets the requirements as opposed to the intent of the rules. Your rear overhang looks pretty long too, so you should have a look at the special rules for trailer yachts in your state.

Let's say your trailer is 2135mm wide (7 feet).
Your lights need to be no less than 1335mm (4' 4-1/2") across. You're going to need a light board of about 4'6".

It should be mounted so the lights are not less than 500mm and not more than 1500mm from the ground.

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PostPosted: Jun 15th, '17, 18:29 
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Thanks Zeb, exactly the info I am after, it sounds like I can shorten the board, but not right down to just the transom width. Still every bit helps.

The rear overhang is pretty long, and the mast overhangs even more, The transom is with in 3.6 distance, but the mast probably isn't.

At some point I will look at going for guides mounted on the trailer and prehaps put some lights on them.

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PostPosted: Jun 15th, '17, 18:37 
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Osprey wrote:
At some point I will look at going for guides mounted on the trailer and prehaps put some lights on them.


(None of these photos were intended specifically to illustrate lights on guide posts)

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Jun 21st, '17, 18:29 
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Just measured up the stern. It is 1.3 meters wide, and the boat and trailer is 2.13 meters, so I should be able to make the board about 1.4 meters long and have barely any overhang outside the stern. Perfect!

Thanks for the pictures of the on trailer options. It seems strange to me that these are considered "better" than clearly mounted lightboards at the rear of the load. But for now the trailerboard is a simple option.

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PostPosted: Jun 21st, '17, 19:10 
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Nice boat Osprey!!
I made a light-board that hooks onto my pushpit as the boat hangs out a fair way behind the trailer and I've never had any success with submersibles. I also added a rear view camera to the system that links to a 7" monitor on the dash of the car. Wayyyy better than shakey mirrors. Don't know how legal it is but I haven't been pulled up for it yet. I suppose I could just hang a mirror onto the door to cover my butt but I hate the useless things with a vengence LOL

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PostPosted: Jun 22nd, '17, 00:37 
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I haven't actually tried an extended wing mirror yet. Maybe I need one, although with the boat being pretty narrow with lots of flare it doesn't seem like an issue when I am driving.

The reversing cam seems like a smart idea. You'd need a pretty long wire?

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PostPosted: Jun 22nd, '17, 01:46 
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I found when towing my Dennis with a Nissan Pulsar I didn't need wide mirrors because the mirrors on the Pulsar were low enough and the boat sat high enough that I could see past under the widest part of the hull!

For modern utes and 4wds you can now get aftermarket extendable mirrors, which have dropped pretty steeply from around $800 a pair 18 months ago to around $350 a pair today on ebay.

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PostPosted: Jun 22nd, '17, 10:52 
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What does the legislation say on rear vision? Like your pulsar case I can see reaonably well behind because the boat is very narrow at the waterline, probably only 5 1/2 foot or so.

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PostPosted: Jun 22nd, '17, 20:33 
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Osprey wrote:
What does the legislation say on rear vision? Like your pulsar case I can see reaonably well behind because the boat is very narrow at the waterline, probably only 5 1/2 foot or so.

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Not sure about legislation in your state but, from a practical view point, you should be aware that somebody is tailgating you close up.

The police do that sometimes if they can't see extension towing mirrors fitted.

I just fitted extending towing mirrors to my new ute, they are still $800+ with electric adjustment and built in indicators. The latter are compulsory if the original mirrors had built in indicators BTW. The cheaper stuff on e-bay has manual mirror adjustment and no indicators.

I also use a rear view camera that mounts on the aft mast support (above transom) and I find that even better than the extension mirror. Its wired, not remote signal. That involves wiring in the car from the dash monitor to a BNC socket near the trailer plug.
A hint about the camera, do avoid the wide angle ones as everything is too small if its further than two car lengths behind. Mine has a 120 degree lens, anything with a larger angle is useless for that purpose.

Just out of curiosity, what is that black curved item that is strapped to you NIS masts for?
AZ100


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PostPosted: Jun 22nd, '17, 20:48 
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az100 wrote:
I just fitted extending towing mirrors to my new ute, they are still $800+ with electric adjustment and built in indicators. The latter are compulsory if the original mirrors had built in indicators BTW. The cheaper stuff on e-bay has manual mirror adjustment and no indicators.


Electric adjusting mirrors with indicators suit BT-50, $345.

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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '17, 11:07 
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az100 wrote:
Just out of curiosity, what is that black curved item that is strapped to you NIS masts for?
AZ100


Thanks for the tips on reversing cameras. That black curved item is an aluminium toe rail for a bigger boat. It worked out as a convenient way to transport it. Far too long for a roofrack, and I didn't want to cut it.

AZ, that boat in your profile picture looks a bit like a Nis? Hard to see with the low resolution.


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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '17, 20:16 
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Osprey wrote:

AZ, that boat in your profile picture looks a bit like a Nis? Hard to see with the low resolution.


She is a NIS26. If you ever are bored you can read about her at NIS26charlotte.com, Pass word is the boat name (as in the URL).
Its a private blog BTW.


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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '17, 20:25 
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zebedee wrote:
az100 wrote:
I just fitted extending towing mirrors to my new ute, they are still $800+ with electric adjustment and built in indicators. The latter are compulsory if the original mirrors had built in indicators BTW. The cheaper stuff on e-bay has manual mirror adjustment and no indicators.


Electric adjusting mirrors with indicators suit BT-50, $345.


Well, I got the Isuzu d-max and the mirrors for that are $565 on that e-bay site. Well, too bad I did not ask here before ordering them from ARB. Thanks anyway Zeb :cry: .

These mirrors are brilliant, even if they stick out quite a bit further than the original ones. The ute tows my 3 ton+ boat very well too.
AZ100


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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '17, 21:19 
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Are they intrusive in narrow spaces when fully retracted? My BT50 is significantly wider than the TF Rodeo I had; parking spaces are tighter and even the standard mirrors sometimes get in the way. Obviously folding them in against the door helps.

These modern diesel utes really are remarkable to tow with aren't they!

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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '17, 23:04 
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Zeb, I only just fitted my mirrors - easy DIY job BTW.

I can see I'll need to take extra care when reversing into my garage now, a mate of mine cracked the lower mirror on his Clearviews while backing out of his garage and getting too close to the door track.

I will fold mine back when parking in shopping centers. The mirror frame is quite strong but the glass won't appreciate careless shopping trolleys.

But no longer having the hassle of fitting the clip on the door extension mirrors, which don't fold back and often shake out of alignment was worth the big expense.
Unfortunately the fold back thing is manual only with these mirrors, I guess they could not fit a strong enough motor to overcome the detend position.
AZ100


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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '17, 23:20 
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I've got a full width aluminium canopy/box on the tray of my ute, so I have a clip on towing mirror permanently mounted to my left mirror to see past it. Everyone I have spoken to who has your mirrors says they are a very fine thing; I think I might bite the bullet soon...

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PostPosted: Jun 24th, '17, 01:40 
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A question, is a lightboard technically legal?
Dont the lights have to be attached to the trailer?
If I take my trailer down for inspection at VicRoads is it acceptable to have the lights / light board attached to the trailer with cable ties?

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PostPosted: Jun 24th, '17, 20:57 
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sailboatmike wrote:
A question, is a lightboard technically legal?
Dont the lights have to be attached to the trailer?
If I take my trailer down for inspection at VicRoads is it acceptable to have the lights / light board attached to the trailer with cable ties?


No, I think there is an exception with boats as they overhang at the rear so fitting the light bar to the boat itself makes it far more visible.

A hint; *never* take your boat trailer with the boat on it to a trailer registration place. That gives them just that much more to knock back :wink: .

I very much doubt that cable ties are an acceptable method of attaching a light board to the trailer. I had mine fitted with temporary screws that looked up to the job and had no problems at the registration place.

The light board hangs under the transom (against the hull bottom) when towing the boat. I hold it there with ocky straps to the aft cleats on each side. The board has been modified to sit snugly against the hull without rocking or shifting sideways. This method has survived many thousands of towing kilometers with no problems.

Another hint; my home built trailer does not require to be dunked to launch/ retrieve the NIS26. Just backing up until the aft wheels are at the waters edge.
So, taking off (and on) a very long lead to the light board would be tedious. I wired another trailer socket to just aft of the rear trailer wheels, its always above the water and its wiring goes inside the trailer frame to the front of the trailer.

This allows the light board to have a relatively short lead to that aft socket, much easier to get in place.
AZ100


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PostPosted: Jun 24th, '17, 21:51 
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Here's another approach to lights:

Image

The wiring was inside the boat to the cabin hatch; I had an extension lead which plugged into the car and reached to the hatch, only because that was the first opening into the interior of the hull; I wanted to keep the connection out of the salt water. Obviously the empty trailer lacked lights and a registration plate, but apart from the occasional relocation to retrieve at a different ramp within Paynesville, the trailer never went anywhere without the boat.

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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '17, 22:47 
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Thanks Az and Zeb, great ideas. Really enjoyed your website AZ, some great ideas and a wonderful job of the NIS. Cheers

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